Cops on Top 1998 Mount Rainier Climb

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Left to right: Keith McPheeters, Rocky Fails, Ria van de Hoef, ,Henk Bezema (kneeling), Steve Evans

August 1998 Mount Rainier Training Climb

Mount Rainier, Washington

In August 1998, Keith McPheeters of Cops on Top conducted a training climb on the Emmons Glacier Route of Mount Rainier. The climb was in preparation for the upcoming Cops on Top Inaugural Law Enforcement Memorial Climbing Expedition to Denali in 1999 at Mount McKinley, Alaska.

Attending the training climb were Sergeant Keith McPheeters and Officer Rocky Fails from the Farmington New Mexico Police Department, Henk Bezema and Ria van de Hoef from the Utrecht Regio Politie (Utrecht Regional Police - The Netherlands), and Steve Evans from Cops on Top, Inc..

Unfortunately, Henk's and Ria's mountaineering equipment was delayed by the airline from The Netherlands and Seattle, Washington, preventing them from participation in the climb itself. During the several days wait in anticipating the arrival of the equipment, the team practiced roped team techniques and mock crevasse rescue with the equipment from Keith, Steve and Rocky. Time was spent comparing the differences between European and American styles of roped travel and rescue. The team had to come to a consensus on the methods to be used on Denali the following Spring. Several options were discussed on how to complete the climb with as much participation as possible. Because mountaineering equipment is highly specialized and personal, it is not easily rented or borrowed. Henk and Ria eventually returned home to The Netherlands, but fortunately their equipment was later recovered.

Henk Bezema and Ria van de Hoef in the foothills below Mount Rainier, Washington

Keith, Rocky and Steve proceeded with the summit attempt of Mount Rainier. Each climber carried with the personal equipment required for a Denali climb. Although it was not needed, it was intended to provide an introduction to what would be endured on Mount McKinley. Although the Emmons Glacier Route is one of the least technically challenging routes, it was selected because it offers among the greatest gains in altitude from the trailhead to the summit (10,060 feet) and crosses the huge crevasses on the largest glacier in the lower 48 states.

Because of the lost time, the team had to move quickly beginning at White River trailhead (4,350 feet). It became obvious that Steve could not keep the pace required with a knee not completely recovered and carrying a full load. His physical therapists predicted that a successful summit was out of the question and, at best, he'd attain Camp Shurman. Steve dropped out to remain at Glacier Basin Camp (6,000 feet) alone while Keith and Rocky went on. During the next couple of days, Steve did some light hiking and climbed the Interglacier to the elevation of approximately 9,000 feet. Keith and Rocky successfully achieved Mount Rainier's summit at 14,410 feet and returned to meet Steve at Glacier Basin Camp.

Below are photos from the climb. Click the thumbnail to enlarge the images.

View of the crevasses on Mount Rainier's Emmons Glacier, as seen from Camp Shurman (9,500feet)

Detail of Emmons Glacier below the summit of Mount Rainier

Keith McPheeters on the 14,410 foot summit of Mount Rainier

Rocky Fails on the 14,410 foot summit
of Mount Rainier