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June 1998 Mount Hood Training Climb
Mount Hood,
Oregon |
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| In June 1998, Steve Evans from
Cops on Top, Inc. and Keith
McPheeters from Cops on Top attended the Mountain Rescue
Association's Spring Training Seminar and 40th
Anniversary at Mount Hood, hosted by Portland Mountain
Rescue. |
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| The seminar included a couple of days of
comprehensive training and exercises conducted on the Palmer
Glacier. Topics included ice axe use, self-arrest, belaying
techniques, roped team travel, rappelling, crevasse self-rescue,
ascension techniques and team crevasse rescue.
The last day was spent climbing Mount Hood itself, followed in
the afternoon with classroom courses and a banquet in the evening at
the Timberline Lodge. For the climb, we chose the Leuthold
Couloir Route |
- WARNING: This is not
intended to be a guide to the mountain. Consult
professional guides before climbing
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On 20 June 1998, we left at 4:00am by snowcat to the top
of the Palmer Snowfield to begin our climb of Mount Hood. There were
only two other rope teams which climbed the Leuthold Couloir route that
day. It is less frequented and more advanced than the popular
Standard Southside Route which is called "The Hogsback".
We traversed Zig Zag Glacier and reached the saddle above
Illumination Rock at sunrise. To our left, the shadow of Mount Hood
hung in the atmosphere. Here we put on our crampons and roped up
before descending briefly to the Reid Glacier, being mindful of the
crevasses. Our ascent was up the 60 degree southwest face of ice and
snow to a portion of the couloir called "The Hour Glass". Falling
rock and ice is funneled directly into the climbing route, necessitating a
careful watch of debris and a constant pace to minimize the time spent in
harm's way. We reached the 11,240 foot summit by 9:00am, and then
descended via the Standard Southside Route.
Below are photos from our climb.
Click the thumbnail to enlarge the images.
A view behind me through "The Hour Glass". Reid
Glacier is seen below in the summit's shadow. |
Steve Evans reaches "The Queen's Chair" above the couloir
with Lane McPheeters (right), attending the seminar from a county
search and rescue team from Utah. The summit is achieved from
this point via an exposed ridgeline. On the horizon is Mount St.
Helens, Mount Rainier and Mount Adams. |
A view of the summit ridge above the north face of Mount Hood.
There is considerable exposure here on both sides of the ridgeline. |
Steve Evans on the summit of Mount Hood. |
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