The Cops on Top team will proceed up the West Buttress Route in what is known as a "siege-style" strategy, typical of big mountain expeditions.  Although it is only about 16 miles from the Kahiltna Base Camp to the South Summit, a distance many veteran hikers and backpackers can easily cover in one day, it presents an elevation gain of over 13,000 feet and the route is subject to some of the most extreme weather conditions in mountaineering.  Therefore, the team establishes a series of camps up the mountain and ferries equipment and supplies between them.  They press higher to establish one camp and retreat back to the lower camp to rest, following a "climb high, sleep low" philosophy to allow the body to adjust to the changes in altitude.  The camps also offer a safe haven from possible life-threatening storm conditions.

Some say you don't climb Denali as much as you camp it.  This results  in an abundance of equipment and supplies.

For most of the route, each climber will likely carry a backpack and drag a sled with a combined weight of well over 100 pounds.  For a team of five, this totals to over a quarter of a ton of equipment.  Remembering that this team is planning for caution and safety, here is an example of the group gear and personal equipment (footwear, climbing tools, clothing, socks, headwear, sleeping, and travel & camping) needed to launch a three week Denali expedition.  Needless to say, it is an expensive undertaking.
 

www.backcountry-experience.com

• Tents (2-3 person,  4-season, expedition quality), including adequate anchor system (at least 4 per tent). Optional: 1 extra tent
• 1 whisk broom and sponge per tent
• Cooking stoves; 1 stove/tent w/platform, and windscreens
• Cooking pots; 1 set of nesting pots (1.5 & 2.5 quarts) with insulation for each stove
• 1 Kitchen set/stove; scouring pads, pot grips, ladle, spatula, cutting board, etc.
• Fuel: White gas (avoid Coleman brand); 4-8 oz/climber/day = approx. 4 quarts (approx. 4 liters)/climber/3 week expedition.
• Rope: at least (1) 45m long 9mm dry rope/2 climbers, or (1) 50m dryrope/3 climbers.
• 1 Extra rope
• 1 anchor/climber: snow pickets (2-3 foot long)
• 1 rack of ice screws/rope team; minimum of 1 ice screw/climber
• 1 extra ice axe
• 1 snowsaw/tent
• 2 snow shovels/tent
• Wands (minimum of 50, recommend as many as 75)
• Avalanche probes: at least 1 probe/rope team
• Communications radios; at least 1 radio/rope team, 3-5 watt CB radio & extra batteries
• Comprehensive Medical kits: 1 per rope team or tent
• Repair kits: 1 per tent (recommended items: mechanics wire, duct tape, hose clamps, file, crescent wrench, pliers, screwdriver, glue, wrench, needle & thread)
• 200ft parachute cord
• Signal devices (flares and/or smoke)
•  set of orienteering equipment/rope team (topo maps, photos/guidebook, compass, GPS, and/or altimeter)
• Toilet system & disposal bags (minimum of 12 large bags), and 3 rolls of toilet paper/person
• Minimum temperature thermometer

• Footwear
• Climbing Tools
• Clothing
• Socks
• Headwear
• Sleeping
• Travel & Camping

• Double plastic boots
• Overboots with insulated sole
• Step-in (strapless) 12 point crampons
• Gaiters
• Down/synthetic fiber booties

• Ice axe
• Seat harness
• 30ft Perlon
• Hardware:
• 2 mechanical ascenders, or 3 Prusiks
• various slings/prusiks
• 6-8 carabiners (at least 2 locking)
• 2 rescue pulleys
• chest harness (or sling) & locking carabiner

• Lightweight layer (T-shirts, long-sleeved shirts, underwear, pants, shorts)
• Long  underwear; (2) pair lightweight, (1) pair expedition weight: Polypropolene, Capilene or silk
• Lightweight synthetic (Capilene) gloves or glove liners (2 pair)
• Expedition quality wool mittens (2 pair)
• Goretex/Cordura overmittens (2 pair)
• Polarfleece or pile jacket & pants (300 weight fleece)
• Goretex Mountain shells (Jacket, & pants or bibs)
• Down or pile insulation pants
• Down parka w/hood

• Wool and/or synthetic fiber socks (3 pair heavy weight)
• Polypropolene, Capilene, silk sock liners (3 pair)

• Visored  hat (baseball cap), and bandana
• Wool or pile cap
• Balaclava (1 heavy weight, 1 light weight)
• Facemask (extreme cold weather neoprene, pile, or fleece)
• Optional: Climbing helmet (primarily used on technical routes)

• Sleeping bag (at least -20F rating) w/ overbag cover (Goretex)
• Sleeping pads (1 full length foam AND 1 full or 3/4  length Thermarest)
• Bivy sack

• Internal frame backpack, at least 6000 cu in (99 liters)
• Haul sled or haul bag  rated to 30-40lbs, with hardware to attach to harness & climbing rope
• Trekking/ski poles
• Snowshoes/skis (with skins)
• Personal First Aid
• Tool kit & spare parts for personal equipment
• Avalanche Beacon
• Glacier glasses (2 pr)
• Double lens goggles (1 pr)
• Water bottles: (2) one liter large mouth
• Insulation covers for water bottles
• Pee bottle (1 liter large mouth) - CLEARLY MARKED
• Sunscreen
• Lip balm/sunscreen
• Toiletry bag
• Pocket knife
• Insulated cup (14-16 oz), and eating utensils
• Plastic bags (to line stuff sacks)
• Stuff sacks
• Lighters (2)
• Camera gear

Copyright © 1999-2000 by Cops on Top, Inc.. All Rights Reserved